Auto-Belay Hazards and Protective Factors
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Since their development in the early 2000s, auto-belays have become a more and more commonly used in adventure programs. Originally used on mobile climbing walls, they are now seen not only on both indoor and outdoor climbing walls and other vertical elements but are also being used as a way to descend from lanyard courses. These automated devices replace the need for a human belayer (or belay team) with a machine that takes up slack during the climber’s ascent and controls descent speed when the climber falls.
The operationally straight-forward clip-and-go approach of these devices enables even novices to start climbing without much instruction. This ease of participant use, however, contributes to some potentially significant safety issues. In fact, given that OPHEA 2019 Standards for Climbing Walls allow one instructor to supervise up to eight (8) active climbers, the demand on staff is arguably higher than it is when they are belaying a single participant or supervising two participatory (team) belays. This blog outlines the hazards and protective factors related to the use of auto-belays
Pre-climb error management. Unlike a skilled belayer, an auto-belay is unable to perform a pre-climb check and catch harnessing and connection errors. As a result, climbing forums on the internet are peppered with stories of experienced climbers who:
Clipped themselves to the wrong part of their harness
Connected the carabiner the wrong way – for example, tri-loading it
Did not check that the carabiner was closed and locked
Failed to connect to the auto-belay at all.
This last one seems incredible but is actually a fairly common occurrence that has led to outcomes ranging from a frightened climber who is able to down climb to serious injury and even to fatalities.
The following practices may help reduce these pre-climb issues:
Use large barriers (often called gates or belay gates) so that a route’s initial handholds and footholds are covered. Having an object in the way combined with lack of visibility sends the message that this route isn’t ready for you. Be sure your route-setters know the importance of hiding these initial holds.
Place a test fall line two to three metres from the ground. When climbers reach the test fall line, they let go and fall. This procedure familiarises the climber with the device and acts as a connection check while at a lower height. This approach works best if it gets used by every climber every time and becomes an automatic part of using an auto-belay. If you are using this procedure, coach climbers to land on their feet.
Physically separate different operating systems. Organise your facility so that the auto-belays are physically separate from bouldering and top rope climbing. Don’t allow folks to mix up what they are doing – it’s too easy get complacent and confused about what system is keeping you safe. Consider NOT allowing climbers to boulder while still wearing their harness.
Only allow monitored auto-belay use. Think about climbing safety the way you think about water safety. Whether it’s lifeguards at the beach or the slogan to “always swim with friend”, spread the message that no one should climb alone. Additionally, adventure programs need to be certain that the auto-belay monitor is NOT assigned to nor distracted by other duties. Having an in-air attendant who is within arm’s reach is absolutely critical if participants are switching between life safety systems at height.
Error management during the climb. Climbers can also get themselves into trouble while they are climbing. The auto-belay monitor should ensure that climbers do the following:
Climb on-route. Climbing outside the triangular shaped belay zone can lead to pendulum-ing lower in the event of a fall.
Keep the belay tight. Over-climbing the device creates slack and increases free fall. Most auto-belays used in adventure programs are NOT designed for speed ascents. An auto-belayed climb is NOT speed climbing trial for the upcoming summer Olympics.
Stay below the anchor. Climbing beside or above the auto-belay is yet another way climbers may inadvertently mis-use the device. Increased freefall increases the impact force on the climber, the device, and the anchorage and increases the potential that one or more of these items may be damaged.
Error management during descent. If there are potential errors to manage before the climb and during the climb, you won’t be surprised to learn that there are potential errors that may occur during the descent.
Communicate what your device does. Some auto-belays provide a weighted lower of a climber while some devices are designed for down-climbing. Climbers attached to non-lowering auto-belay need to be able to stand back up if they fall or will need to be rescued. Many auto-belays do not provide a distinct or instant “catch” – climbers used to a human belay may initially be uncomfortable with the freefall and constant speed of lowering especially if they don’t know what to expect. Be aware that the behaviour of a device when the climber is close to the ground may result in a ground fall (a situation not dissimilar to what may happen when using a high stretch rope for a top rope belay).
Verify climber mass. Every auto-belay comes with a minimum and maximum climber weight. This range varies from device to device so make sure you know what it is. No one wants a kinder-camper stuck at the air because they are too light for the device to lower.
Eliminate helmet snag hazards. The auto-belays with a constant speed of lowering will continue to lower the climber even when a helmet, harness strap, or drawstring get caught on a hold or feature. It is because of this potential for strangulation that many auto-belays recommend climbers NOT wear a helmet.
Keep a clear landing zone. The constant speed of lowering also means that an auto-belay won’t wait for people to get themselves or their stuff out of the way. Prevent ankle injuries by keeping the landing zone free of obstructions at all times.
Descend feet first. Climbers think it looks cool to descend Spiderman-style – until they land on their head. Require climbers to use auto-belays according to manufacturer directions.
Auto-belays can be a good fit with an adventure program. Remember, however, that just because they are simple for participants to use, they still require skilled supervision and operation by adventure program staff.